Studebaker Dash switches aren't that tough to "renew". You can't really "rebuild them" per se... but they can be "fixed. There are several different types of switches, but the basic design is much the same.
To Renew: Refer to the photo below...........
1) Remove the wiring and remove the switch from the dash
2) remove the circuit breaker from the switch (that "box" on the side)..if so equipped (Wipers and Headlight switches)
3) carefully bend 2 of the tiny metal tabs (on one side) back so they are nearly verticle
4) only SLIGHTLY loosen the other 2 tabs
***This will allow the back cover to be removed- and also makes it MUCH easier to reinstall than bending up "all" of the tabs
5) Carefully remove the back cover, and paper insulator(if used)- set them aside- Get out the (cloths)IRON and pre-heat it on a low setting. Once warm- IRON the rear cover(if possible) AND the insulator paper to make them nice and flat again.
6) remove the copper contact plate(s), and spring(s)- clean it/them with electrical cleaner and/or steel wool, or a scotch brite pad until it is clean and shiny
7) remove the interior components- NOTING EXACTLY how they come apart- and clean them all with electrical cleaner
8) Reinstall the now clean components- using an electrical grease such as the type you get with a set of distributor points.
9) Reinstall the back cover and insulating paper, and carefully bend the tabs back down.
10) Test the switch circuits with a battery charger and test light.
Typical switch components:
Below you will see 2 different switches in their disassembled state. The (TOP) one is a headlight switch from a '54 or '54. The lower one is a heater switch from a '62 GT It is pretty much the same as the heater and defroster switches from '56-'62. The only difference is the wire connections on the back- and the switch handle.
A: As referred to above- this is the "paper" insulator often found inside the rear cover of a switch
B: Copper contacts
C: Springs for the copper contacts
The plastic part is
interference fit on the end of the handle that is grooved not threaded. This is destroyed when removing.
The handle has to pass through this bushing
There are two thin tabs on this bushing the attach it to the switch box. These are not able to be saved for reuse. They attach to this box,
The handle end was made from a mold in different colors
There was a stamped insert fitted to the end of the handle.
This plastic deteriorates over time. This is one problem.
The next problem is the inside plate, pictured below warps with age.
It is made from a "waxed" type of cardboard. It can be flattened with a household iron if needed.
What I think would be a solution is to adapt a modern switch that is DPDT and with the addition of resistors with instructions it would serve many applications. The old switch type configuration is pictured below
What I want is a switch that looks original on the front of the dash,like below
What the reverse side looks like is of no concern.